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LYMAN BLACK POWDER HANDBOOK PDF

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If you're having a conversation about muzzleloaders or blackpowder, sooner or later the name Hunting, The Complete Blackpowder Handbook (editions 1 and 2), The Gun Digest Blackpowder The Lyman caliber Minie, Mould No. By Sam Fadala. Lyman Black Powder Handbook and Loading Manual: All New 2nd Edition, the world's foremost black powder manual. Includes thousands of. There are four key rules to always be aware of when shooting Black Powder . about the loads and patches to use, see the Lyman Black Powder manual. Filler.


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Congratulations on purchasing your new Lyman Black Powder Gun. All of our You will find this book to be a handy tool reference and a good source for the. Lyman Dear Black Powder Shooter: Congratulations on purchasing your new Wear safety glasses when shooting black powder firearms. Fadala Lyman introduces the Black Powder Handbook that muzzleloaders have been waiting for. Buy Lyman Black Powder Handbook & Loading Manual, 2nd Edition: Tweezers - cittadelmonte.info ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases.

Search the history of over billion web pages on the Internet. Books by Language. Full text of " Lyman Blackpowder " See other formats Ly ma n User's Guide for Black Powder Products This booklet contains important how-to information on the use and maintenance of black powder products and accessories including: Information contained herein-especially the operational procedures of loading and cleaning-can almost always be used when operating guns of another make. Repair and Warranty Service For factory warranty service or repairs, please direct your Lyman muzzleloader as follows:

Your selection of the proper cloth patching should he based on an understanding of the relationship between the bore of your rifle and the roundball which will be used. Ball diameter must be less than that of the bore and the cloth must not only fill the grooves but also allow a tight sliding fit between the lands and the patched ball. Follow the suggestions of your rifle's manufacturer concerning projectile diameter.

Several companies make specific diameters available either with the purchase of the gun or as a component in a valuable accessory kit. Most other guns will have standard- ized bore sizes and will be suited for one of the standard roundball diameters such as.

To make your final judgment on ball and patch you must measure the bore. The best way to measure the bore of our rifle is with a soft lead slug which has the rifling engraved on its diameter. Remove the barrel from the stock. Start an oversized slug into the muzzle and drive it into the barrel approximately 2" using a brass punch.

Now tip the muzzle end of the barrel downwards so that the brass rod slides into the slug. Repeat this procedure several times until the rod drives the slug from the barrel. The engraved slug will have a perfect print of your bore's dimension. Now, with a micrometer, measure both the bore and groove diameter. Here's a sample: Groove -. Patch should be thick enough to seal both lands and grooves.

We know the ball must be smaller than the bore diameter so let's select a. With the ball adequately under size. Remember, there is a thickness of patching on each side of the ball and the difference between the ball and groove diameters must be halved to determine the thickness of cloth needed.

Usually it is better to buy cloth that is several thousandths of an inch thicker since the lubricated material will compress upon loading. Now that you're on the way-keep experimenting with your rifle. Vary the powder charge, cleaning technique, patching or whatever. That's part of the fun of muzzle-loading. But remember to vary only one condition at a time so you can easily keep track of cause and effect.

The heat of ignition can melt some synthetics resulting in inaccuracy and deposits in your bore. Furthermore, Lyman suggests that plastic cups or patching systems not be used since there can be inadvertent misuse which results in unsafe shooting conditions. Stick with the traditional cloth patch.

The Minie, Solid-Base Conical, or Sabots in a Rifle As for every muzzle-loading gun, there are several operations the wise shooter performs before pouring the first powder charge down the bore. First, he dries the bore and chamber area with clean patches and removes any oil accumulation visible in the nipple and vent. Next, the shooter will snap one or two caps on the nipple to make sure the channel from the nipple through the barrel wall is open.

For a quick visual verification place the muzzle near a leaf, blade of grass or similar object-cap blast will noticeably move it around if the vent is clear. Finally, run the patch down the bore one last time to collect any new debris. Now, you're ready to load and here's how it goes: Set the gun's butt on the ground with the barrel angled so the muzzle is well away from your body.

Pour the measured charge down the barrel. Many shooters use pre-measured charges loaded into cardboard or plastic tubing. The important thing to remember is not to load directly from a flask or horn. There have been instances where an ember from the preceding shot has remained alive long enough to ignite the next charge as it is dropped down the barrel. The resulting flash touched off the powder within the flask, causing serious injury to the shooter.

Use a separate measure. Conical or Minies Push the lubricated conical, base-down, into the bore, place the recessed ramrod head over the nose and smoothly ram it home. Strive for a smooth motion that leaves the bullet seated atop the powder without air space or undue compression.

Remember, unless the bullet is seated fully and correctly, an air space may result-and that could mean a bulged or split barrel. Uniformity in loading is the secret to good marksmanship when shooting a Minie or solid-base conical.

Conicals can shift off the powder charge and down towards the muzzle if you carry the gun in even a slight barrel-down position. Hunters are particularly exposed to this and should take special precautions: Sabots Sabot bullets are designed to be seated with the bullet inside of the sabot.

Never seat the sabot and bullet separately! Place the base of the sabot with a bullet into the muzzle of the rifle and align it as straight as possible with the bore.

Using a ball starter, drive the sabot and bullet several inches into the barrel. Use the recessed end of the ramrod to drive the sabot and bullet the rest of the way down the barrel. Try to do this smoothly and firmly, seating the base of the sabot against the powder charge.

Uniformity in loading is key to good accuracy. Bring the hammer to full cock and press a percussion cap firmly over the nipple-you're ready to fire.

After firing, leave the hammer down over the exploded cap as you reload. This restricts air circulation and helps smother any sparks left behind by your preceding shot. Remember-avoid having your hands or face directly over the muzzle during the loading operation. After the gun is loaded follow the safety rules used for modern firearms. Bullet No. Casts a nominal. It also features a two diameter design for easy loading. Fits most traditional.

The two diameter design makes loading easy and the heavy weight provides excellent knock down power. This bullet works best with fast twist barrels. Available as a mould or as packaged bullets 6. Like the. It is designed for fast twist barrels, such as the Lyman Great Plains Hunter. Available as a mould or as packaged bullets.

Fits any. Does well with charges up to 70 grains FFg.

Lyman Black Powder Handbook Loading Manual: All New 2nd Edition

Designed for Navy Arms. Parker-Hale rifles. MAXI Shocker gr. Rifled Musket Old Style i Shocker gr. The Lyman Great Plains Rifle, Trade Rifle, Deerstalker or Plains Pistol may be easily disassembled for cleaning by removing the ramrod, driving out the barrel wedge in the fore- arm, drawing the hammer to full cock and lifting the barrel muzzle first out of stock. The hooked breech will slip right out of the tang unit with no further disassembly needed.

Of course, these Lyman guns can be cleaned without any disassembly but care should be taken to prevent water and solvents from entering the stock or lock mechanism. Scrub the bore with a strong solution of hot soapy water. Wipe all powder fouling from other metal parts.

Flush the barrel with the hottest clean water available. This not only removes the soap but also heats the steel which helps in the drying process. Dry all parts. Apply a good coat of oil or moisture-displacing lubricant to all metal parts and reassemble. A silicone gun rag is excellent for treating the exterior of the muzzleloader.

Inspect for the next few days just to be safe. Solvents designed specifically for black powder guns are now on the market and the old standbys may be used as well.

Scrub the bore with brass brush and lots of patches. Wipe down all metal parts. Using plenty of clean patches, wipe the bore dry. All guns are supplied with a cleaning jag of the proper size.

The jag screws into the end of the ramrod and will securely hold cleaning patches. Dry all metal parts. Apply oil to all metal parts and reassemble. Cleaning Note Note: The powder channel inside the breech plug is smaller than the bore diameter and does not allow the cleaning jag to enter. Lyman recommends the use of a. Do Not Exceed! Plains Pistol. Sabot gr.

Maxi 40 grs. Maxi grs. Pyrodex pellets are not recommended with Lyman side hammer guns due to difficult ignition. The unique tapered design allows easy loading. Lubricated with new Lyman Black Powder Gold assures a perfect gas seal for best accuracy.

Semi-pointed design gives higher velocity and to take big game quickly and cleanly out to. This chart is intended as a guide to show the appropriate uses of Pyrodex and Black Powder. It is not necessary to follow them exactly. Due to its rather limited use, it is usually somewhat difficult to obtain. When necessary, FFFG may be substituted. There is no Pyrodex equivalent.

Commonly called "Triple F", this powder is used in most single shot pistols and all percussion revolvers. It is also popular for all smaller caliber rifles up to and including 50 caliber.

Also used in the larger caliber single shot pistols and most shotguns. FG Commonly called "Single F", this is the coarsest granulation used for small arms. Use is pretty much restricted to rifles over 75 caliber and large bore shotguns.

In addition, the increased per-shot economy will quickly defray the cost of the casting equipment. As a muzzleloader, your start-up costs will also be reduced since you will not need to purchase sizing and lubricating equipment. For the muzzleloader who is just starting out in casting, we recommend our Mini-Mag Furnace. This watt furnace is designed to perfectly fill the needs of the black powder shooter. In about 30 minutes, this furnace will bring 8 pounds of lead up to casting temperature.

For a complete listing of all Lyman's casting equipment, please see our current catalog which is available by writing to: Lyman Products, Smith St. Melting lead and casting lead objects will expose you and others in the area to lead, which is known to cause birth defects, other reproductive harm and cancer. Lead contamination in the air, in dust, and on your skin is invisible. Keep children and pregnant women away during use and until cleanup is complete. Risk can be reduced-but not eliminated-with strong ventilation; washing hands immediately after use of these products before eating or smoking; and careful cleaning of surfaces and floors with disposable wipes, after lead dust has had a chance to settle.

Use a lead specific cleaner with EDTA, or a high- phosphate detergent like most detergents sold for electric dishwashers and bag used wipes for disposal. A bullet mould is absolutely necessary and generations of shooters have used-and continue to use-Lyman precision bullet moulds. If you are melting lead on the kitchen stove, exercise care to avoid lead contamination of stove, food and food preparation and serving utensils. First carefully clean all oil and grease from your mould, both the cavity and the precision-ground block faces.

Now the mould is ready for casting. Second, prepare your molten lead, flux and skim off the impurities. When the molten lead is properly cleaned it will be a bright silver. Breathing or ingestion of lead or vapors constitutes a potentially serious health hazard. Third, place your ladle in the pot and let it heat to the lead's temperature. Now arrange your towel to cushion the newly cast bullets as they drop from the mould and place the hammer handle or mallet close by.

You're all set. Pour molten lead from the ladle into the mould in a rapid continuous manner. Don't interrupt the pour or an imperfect bullet will result. The first few bullets will be flawed regardless of your expertise because the mould itself needs to be brought up to proper temperature.

This can best be done by actually casting bullets and returning them to the melting pot.

As you finish pouring each bullet, grasp the mallet and strike the sprue cutter, slicing through the lead in the pouring hole just above the bullet's surface. Don't drop sprue or flawed bullets directly from the mould into the pot.

Molten lead splashes easily. Periodically-and gently-return the scraps to the pot. Lower the mould close to your towel and open the handles. The bullet should drop freely to the pad. If it doesn't-especially after casting for a while-it may well be overheating and due for a minute's rest! After you've prepared the desired quantity of bullets be sure to close the mould and position the sprue cutter as if you were about to pour. This will allow the mould to cool with both blocks in perfect alignment.

After the mould has cooled, oil it well as it is especially susceptible to rust after the lead has driven out most moisture. The mould will draw moisture from your home -similar to a dry sponge. The smart caster is well-protected from splashes of molten lead by gloves and eye protection and works in a well-lighted and well-ventilated room.

The shooter can choose the style preferred and save the other as a spare. Front Sight-The sights on these rifles are a combination of traditional appearance and sighting principles proved in more modern times.

This dark, thick blade permits close holding and fast sight alignment. Blades which are polished brass or silver cause the shooter to "shoot away from the light" due to glare on the blade. The front sight may be left "as is" or reduced in height, by filing, to raise the point of impact. Use a cold blue solution to re-blacken the sight after filing. Adjustable Rear Sight-This traditional buckhorn rear sight allows minor ele- vation adjustments without filing.

Turn the screw clockwise to lower the point of impact; counterclockwise to raise the point of impact. Windage adjustments are made by carefully "drifting" the entire rear sight left or right. The best way to "set up" this sight for both hunting and recreational shooting is as follows: Turn the elevation screw clockwise until the elevation arm bottoms in the full "down" position. Load rifle with your hunting charge and sight in at desired hunting range perhaps yards.

File down front sight until the rifle shoots to exact point of aim. Since recreational shooting usually involves circular bullseye targets, the rifle can usually be brought into the "ten ring" by using a six o'clock hold and raising the elevator arm slightly.

The front and rear sight combine to produce the very efficient "Patridge" sighting configuration which is perfect for most hunting and target shooting.

Finished Sight Primitive Rear Sight-This is a traditional one piece, fixed sight which allows final shape and elevation adjustments to be filed into it by the shooter. Windage adjustments are made by tapping the rear sight to the left or right as you wish the bullet's impact to shift. Once you have settled on the bullet and charge level, the filing can begin. You may find the unaltered rear sight is just fine.

However, you may discover that you are shooting high-even with the front sight blade buried in the rear sight notch. If that is the case, then here's what you do: File the top of the sight flat until you reach the correct elevation for your selected load. The correct procedure is to file a bit then shoot; file-shoot and so forth until the rifle shoots to the desired point of impact.

With the sights set correctly, now is the time to deepen or widen the rear sight notch if you wish. Use a cold blue solution to re-blacken the sight. The result is a traditional rear sight which utilizes the very practical and efficient "Patridge" configuration-excellent for hunting or target work.

Windage adjustments may be made by "drifting" the rear sight in the direction you wish to move bullet impact. The rear sight notch width and front blade width are designed to provide a very fine target sight picture. You may widen the rear notch with a jeweler's file if you wish. Use a cold blue solution to re-blacken the sights after filing to eliminate glare. This open rear sight is equipped with an adjustable elevation blade which is held firmly in place by two lock screws. In order to change the point of impact, loosen the two lock screws holding the rear sight elevation blade.

Raising the elevation blade will raise the point of impact. Lowering the elevation blade will lower the point of impact. Tighten the lock screw when the elevation blade is in the desired location. In order to make windage adjustments, the entire rear sight can be carefully "drifted" to the right or left. Use a punch made from a soft material such as brass, and strike the base of the sight only.

Never strike the folding leaf. Windage adjustments are made by moving the sight in the direction you wish the ball to go. In adjusting any type of iron sight, the following principles hold true: Adjust the rear sight in the direction you wish to move the bullet's impact.

Adjust the front sight exactly opposite the direction you wish the bullet's impact to shift. To meet the needs of today's black powder enthusiast, Lyman offers a number of alternative sight packages which can improve accuracy for the serious target shooter or hunter.

Minor drilling and tapping required depending on manufacturer. The 57 GPR has the same specifications as the 57 SML described above, however, is equipped with an adapter base that fits the tang angle of Great Plains rifles.

Designed for use with dovetail slot mounting, the sight is supplied with seven interchangeable inserts that are locked into place with a threaded cap. The 16 Folding Leaf Sight is adjustable for elevation and the leaf can be folded out of the way when the rifle is additionally equipped with a receiver sight.

The conditions include adjustment to prevent the pin from falling out if the fit is loose, or the removal of a small amount of material if the wedge pins do not enter completely through. If the wedge pin is too loose fig. Gently tap the bar with a hammer while rolling bar back and forth fig. Check fit by installing bar- rel in stock and installing wedge pin.

Repeat as necessary. Proceed very carefully since this operation can be overdone quickly.

Wedge pins can on occasion hang up on the inside of the left side escutcheon, To correct this, remove RIGHT side escutcheon and secure in a vise. Use a small jewelers file to remove material from the top of the slot in which the wedge pin slides through.

Check fit by placing in cavity it is not necessary to screw in place and inserting wedge pin. This will ease entry of the wedge pin. This "Great Plains" rifle was designed and built by such famous makers as Hawken, Gemmer and Demick to the specifications of experienced backwoodsmen.

Only the best and most reliable designs and finest workmanship were acceptable. Today, as in the 's, the experienced black powder shooter is looking for a very special rifle.

The Lyman Great Plains Rifle, with its graceful, yet sturdy lines, is such a gun. The modern muzzleloader will appreciate its combination of strength, reliability, accuracy and authentic good looks.

It is truly a black powder gun of remarkable significance. Each Great Plains Rifle offers such high quality features as a 32", 1 in 60" twist barrel for patched ball and hunting loads, double set triggers, Hawken style percussion "snail" with clean out screw and reliable coil spring lock with correct lock plate.

All guns come with walnut stocks and darkened steel furniture. The Great Plains Hunter features a 1 in 32" fast twist barrel for corneals or sabots. Breechplugs and barrels not sold separately, only as factory-assembled units. Part Dwg. Part Pc. Number Description Pc. Screw 4 Rib Screw 16a Adj. Rear Sight complete 6 Cleaning Jag. Flint 11 Tang Screw rear 17h L. Flint 17n GPH Barrel. Lock Assembly 29 Trigger Guard 5c L. Lock Assembly Flint 30 Trigger Assy.

The rear wedge is slightly longer than the front wedge and is installed closest to the lock. Both wedges are installed from the right to the left. This is true for right or left-hand rifles. Sights are also installed from the right to the left. Sights are removed from the left to the right. Lock assembly for percussion and flintlock rifles shown on page This system provides either a standard trigger for snap shots while hunting or a more sensitive "set" trigger for precision shooting.

To engage the set trigger pull the hammer back to full cock, squeeze the rear trig- ger until a "click" is felt, then carefully aim and press the front trigger. Be careful-don't let the light pull catch you by surprise! You may fire the rifle without engaging the set trigger by using only the front trigger.

Turning the adjustment screw 51 clockwise will lighten the set trigger pull; turning the screw counter-clockwise will increase it. The range of adjustment is limited by Lyman to prevent the set trigger from being lightened to the point where we feel it would be unsafe. Use common sense in this adjustment and in the use of the trigger mechanism.

Designed by such companies as Henry and Leman, these original guns were much sought after by trappers, Indians and other rugged wilderness survivors. These men wanted a basic hunting gun that combined the best attributes of a hunting rifle without the expensive frills of more ornate rifles. The Trade Rifle is designed to accurate- ly fire both patch round ball and maxi style conical bullets.

It features a 28" octagon barrel with 1 in 48" twist, polished brass furniture, steel rib and blued finish on all steel parts. The single trigger is spring loaded for positive ten- sion. Each rifle includes both fixed "primitive" and elevation adjustable rear sights.

The optional 57 SML can be mounted without any modifications. Number Description 4 Cleaning Jag. Breechplugs and barrels not sold separate only as factory-assembled units. The wedge is installed from the right to the left.

Lock assemblies for percussion and flint rifles shown on page Components Dwg. Trigger assembly as shown above is the same for both the Trade Rifle and Deerstalker. Like all Lyman black powder guns, the Deerstalker has an impressive collec- tion of top-quality rifle features. The rich walnut stock is specially designed with less drop for improved sight picture and includes a handsome rubber pad to lessen recoil.

The barrel and all metal parts are blackened to avoid glare. Whether flint or percussion, all Lyman locks employ a rugged, reliable coil mainspring. The barrel has a 1 in 48" twist which will handle a large range of bullet types and weights. The Deerstalker combines these traditional qualities with the modern features that the serious hunter demands. Each rifle features a specially designed stock with Lyman front and rear hunting sights for an improved sight picture. The shorter barrel and lighter weight make it ideal for carrying on an all day hunt.

All hardware is darkened for low glare and all rifles come with sling swivel studs and a handsome rubber pad to reduce recoil. The ultra quiet single trigger is fast and efficient. Finally, all Deerstalker Rifles are factory pre-drilled and tapped for an optional Lyman 57 Receiver Sight for the most serious target shooter or hunter. Barrel and Sight Group 7 Components Dwg. Number Description la Cleaning Jag. Flint 8d Barrel. Stock 16b L. Lock Assembly 24 Escutcheon 16c L.

Trigger assembly for Deerstalker same as Trade Rifle shown on page Lock assemblies for Lyman rifles shown on page Recommend conical or sabots for this model.

These are nominal specifications for general information only. The actual dimensions of a given gun may vary several thousandths of an inch. It is often necessary to experiment with several ball diameters and patch thicknesses to find the one best for your application.

All major metal parts such as the barrel, trigger guard, lock assembly, escutcheons, and wedge are stainless steel for the greatest protection against black powder fouling and weather. The Deerstalker stainless models uses a 1 in 32" twist barrel for shooting corneals and sabots.

Stainless parts have brushed finish to prevent glare. Breechplugs and barrels not sold separately, only as factory- assembled units. The exterior is finely finished and color case-hardened as were the guns of years ago. Inside, the lock is a redesigned system featuring a coil mainspring 42 instead of the traditional leaf spring.

This is a much more durable mainspring, one that is not prone to the breakage problems encountered with the flat leaf springs. Number Description 38 Bridle Screws 44a L.

Sear 41a L. Hammer 44 Tumbler 49 Sear Screw Note: Pull hammer to full cock before removing lock assembly from the stock. Wood damage will result if this is not done.

Number Description 1 Bridle Screw 10a L.

Lock Plate 12a L. All steel parts on the finished gun are polished and blued - except for the belt hook. The percussion lock is hardened internally with a color-case hardened lockplate and hammer on both the kit and finished gun. Your Plains Pistol is designed to fire a tightly patched roundball accurately at various charge levels.

Do not shoot conical bullets, such as the "Maxi" or Minie ball. The conical bullets are very heavy, compared to a patched round-ball, and are very likely to slip towards the muzzle if the loaded pistol is carried on the belt.

The resultant space between bullet and powder could produce a bulged or burst barrel under certain conditions. Breech plugs and barrels not sold separately, only as factory-assembled units.

Lyman Black Powder Handbook and Loading Manual: All New 2nd Edition Reloading Manual

Pistol Tang Screw-Pl. Pistol Barrel. Pistol Stock kit -Pl. Shooting Caution: Do not carry your loaded Plains Pistol with a percussion cap on the nipple. This is just as unsafe as carrying a single-action revolver with a primed chamber under the hammer - even if the hammer is on the safety notch.

Proper assembly will enable you to create a muzzle- loading firearm having the quality lines of an expensive custom piece. Read these instructions thoroughly before you actually begin assembly.

There are several critical steps - and others that will save considerable time within the instructions. Reading the instructions will give you a better under- standing of the task and allow you to mentally sequence the events before beginning work. You will find this book to be a handy tool reference and a good source for the material you cannot find locally.

Brownells Inc. Rasps- You will need a straight rasp for rough shaping the exterior of the stock to final dimensions. The "Surform" tools produced by Stanley will do a satisfactory job. Sand Paper-Grades 80 through You will find that most, if not all, the major parts will fit properly with no additional inletting required. However, we have chosen to be very meticulous and present the inletting of each part with greater detail and emphasis than is likely to be required. Throughout these instructions you will be instructed to "blacken"the part prior to inletting, then to look for the black transfer marks, indicating where excess material is to be removed.

These instructions refer to a technique where a part is coated with a transfer agent such as soot, Prussian Blue, lipstick or similar substance then inserted into the semi-inletted stock and lightly tapped into place.

When the part is removed, the transfer agent will remain on the stock showing where wood is to be removed or the fit is perfect. If you have never inletted a stock before, it is important for you to realize the presence of a black transfer mark does not automatically indicate removal of material. Assume that you are inletting the lock assembly. After you remove the lock for the first time you will note the black transfer marks in the cavity.

Little black will be apparent around the edges of the lock. Black marks will be located within the cavity showing where wood is to be removed to allow the working parts of the lock to fit. You will continue to coat the part with transfer agent, reinsert it into the cavity, continue inletting gradually dropping the lock into place.

As the lock is lowered into position the edge of the lock plate will come into contact with the stock. At this time you must proceed very slowly. Wood is actually shaved from the cavity where the edge of the lock plate meets the stock. When the lock plate is properly inletted, light transfer marks will be apparent around the edges of the cavity.

If these light transfer marks were to be removed you would create gaps between the edge of the lock plate and the surface of the stock, a condition that is not desirable. There are two simple ways to obtain a suitable transfer agent.

One is to coat the part with soot from a smoking candle. The smoke from the candle flame is played on the part. This technique is very effective when fit- ting metal to metal.

Add a few drops of oil at the wick base if your candle does not smoke enough. The second way to obtain a transfer agent is to pur- chase a bottle of "inletting black" from a gunsmith supply house. The barrel is to be partially finished first so that it can be readily inletted into the stock. Draw Filing the Barrel-Draw filing is used primarily to shave away the tool marks left on the barrel by the precision milling operation; secondarily to dress the patent breech to the barrel.

During draw filing, the file is held such that it makes a right angle with the axis of the barrel refer to Figure 1. Holding the file with both hands, it is lightly drawn down the entire length of the barrel, shaving metal away as it travels.

Start at the muzzle and draw the file towards you, making sure that the file is held flat against the barrel. Do not allow the file to rock side to side during the draw, as this will cause rounded edges. Continue filing, one flat at a time, until each flat of the barrel is completely free of milling tool marks, and the breech plug is flush with the barrel flats.

Take your time. When the draw file has been completed, lightly oil the entire barrel to prevent rust. The final polishing of the barrel will be done after all inletting has been completed. Fitting the Tang to the Breech Plug-The tang and the lug on the breech- plug may require hand-fitting to provide the proper fit when the barrel is hooked into position.

This step is often unnecessary as it is factory fitted. A slight amount of pressure to make contact is desired. You will note that when the tang is first installed onto the breech plug it may not lie flat, in contact with the rear of the breech plug.

The idea now is to carefully file away the surface "A" of the breech plug lug until the tang mounts flush with the plug with a small amount of pressure applied. Over-cutting of the top surface will cause the tang to fit loosely and may affect accuracy. Blacken the entire surface of the projecting lug on the breech plug. Hook the tang onto the lug. Remove the tang and examine the upper surface of the lug. White marks soot rubbed away will indicate where excess metal is to be filed away.

Carefully file away excess metal, reblacken the lug and hook the tang back into position. Repeat the filing and fitting process until the top flat of the tang is parallel with the top flat of the barrel. Inletting the Stock-The stock of your Lyman muzzleloader is a very delicate piece of wood, and requires considerable care when metal parts are fitted to it.

Pressure incorrectly applied when inletting could well result in a cracked stock. The areas of the tang, barrel breech and the lock are particularly delicate. Large amounts of wood have been removed from these areas to accommodate hardware. These areas are very likely to be damaged if improper care is taken during the inletting process.

The following instructions describe how to proceed during each critical step. With reasonable care, good results will be obtained. Blacken the underside of the bushing and press it into its stock cavity. Remove the bushing and carefully cut away excess wood within the cavity.

Continue the process until the bushing is completely inletted and bottoms in the cavity. Should the bushing become stuck in position before inletting is complete, it can be easily removed by inserting the lock screw into the screw hole from the lock cavity side of the stock, and carefully tapping out the bushing. Inletting the Lock Assembly-First, draw the hammer back to full cock. Apply transfer agent to plate edges. Position the lock over its cavity in the stock.

Insert the lock mounting screw and slowly tighten it, drawing the lock down into posi- tion. Draw down only until resistance is met. Remove the lock and examine the cavity for black transfer marks. Carefully cut away excess wood.

If you remove too much wood from the inner surface where the stock and the edge of the lock plate meet, unsightly gaps will result. Remove only small amounts of wood at a time. Do not over-tighten the lock screw when drawing the lock into position. If the cavity has not been fully inletted, the lock will act as a wedge and a cracked stock will result. Continue the inletting process until the lock has been inletted to a point where the surface of the lock plate is just above the surface of the stock.

Final inletting will take place later. He holds one each of a bachelor's degree, master's and doctorate. He currently lives in Casper, Wyoming with his wife Nancy and their four children. Summary of Material: There are hundreds of pressure tested black powder cartridge loads for such calibers as the , , and Cowboy action calibers such as , 45 Colt and 44 Special are also covered, as well as 10, 12 and 20 gauge shotshells. Product Family: Enlarge Zoom in. Ships tomorrow from MidwayUSA. Eligible for Quantity: Quantity Limit of 0 Due to high demand and our desire to serve as many Customers as possible, we are currently limiting the quantity that each individual Customer may order.

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